Hveradalir: Iceland's Hidden Highland Thermal Wonderland (And Why It's Worth the 2-Hour Drive)
On day two of my Iceland Ring Road adventure, after a whirlwind tour of the Golden Circle, I made a decision that would set me hours behind schedule but ignite a burning desire to return to Iceland's highlands.
I turned off the main road and headed deep into the highlands toward Hveradalir - a lesser-known thermal area that promised something the popular spots couldn't deliver: solitude.
(If you're looking for the full story of my 10-day Ring Road trip, rooftop tent adventures, and puffin obsession, check out Part 1 of this Iceland series.)
Why Venture Into the Highlands?
At this point in the trip, things were still rosy. I hadn't yet realized just how much I'd underestimated the Ring Road's scale - that reality check wouldn't hit until I got back to paved roads and started calculating how far I still had to go. On day two, I was still optimistic and eager for adventure.
But here's the thing: most of the major thermal areas in Iceland are in the highlands. The difference is that most people stick to the easily accessible ones near the Ring Road and Golden Circle. Hveradalir? It's less well known, harder to reach, and that's exactly what makes it special.
For photographers and nature lovers, fewer crowds means everything. It's the difference between waiting for tour groups to clear your shot and having the freedom to set up your tripod wherever you want.
I'd gotten this spot from a Google Maps list shared by a friend who'd been to Iceland several times. When I saw it marked deep in the highlands, accessible only by F-road, I knew it had to be part of my journey. I'm a sucker for an unpaved road adventure into the wilderness - the kind of place that requires a little extra effort to reach.
The Drive: What to Actually Expect
The route to Hveradalir starts from the end of the Golden Circle, heading up F35 - one of Iceland's F-roads that legally requires a 4WD vehicle.
The first 90% of the journey was bumpy but honestly not difficult. I'd argue it doesn't even really need 4WD for most of it, though you're legally required to have it. The scenery kept me captivated the entire way - starting with meadows and rolling hills similar to much of the Golden Circle, then transitioning to rocky mountains with dramatic cliffs and valleys shaped by ancient lava flows.
As I got closer, the landscape transformed into something otherworldly. Huge shield volcanoes covered in glaciers surrounded pristine lakes. Rivers cascaded down mountainsides, creating waterfalls that would be major attractions anywhere else. I passed a few cars on the main F35 road, but once I turned off toward Hveradalir specifically, I saw almost no one.
Then came the last 10 kilometers. The road got steep, narrow, and was somewhat washed out. This section required going slow and constantly watching far ahead in case another vehicle was coming, because parts of the road are only one car wide. It wasn't terrifying, but it definitely required focus.
Was it worth the sketchy final approach? Absolutely.
Arriving at Hveradalir
Only three cars sat in the parking lot when I arrived. The moment I opened my door, I was hit by the overwhelming sulfur smell - that distinct rotten egg scent that tells you you're standing at a gateway to the deepest parts of the earth, where molten rock and superheated water force their way to the surface.
The first thing I noticed was people carefully trying to scrape mud off their shoes. Mental note made: protect the camera gear. This mud was incredibly sticky and slippery.
From the parking area, you can't see much - just steam rising in the distance and the faint roar of thermal vents. But as you walk down the trail and crest a small hill, the entire area reveals itself all at once.
It's stunning. A massive expanse of different colored clay - yellows, oranges, reds, whites - interrupted by bubbling pools and steam vents scattered across the landscape. Boardwalks crisscross the thermal field, and the small number of people exploring made the scale immediately apparent.
I spent three hours hiking around and photographing from various vantage points.
The Photography Challenge (And Reward)
The conditions presented some interesting challenges. It was fairly windy, and the long summer days meant harsh sunlight early on, though it softened beautifully as my visit progressed.
The hardest part? Conveying scale. The colors popped brilliantly, but capturing just how massive this area is proved difficult.
One of my best shots came almost by accident - two hikers in brightly colored jackets making their way along one of the ridgelines with steam rising dramatically around them. That human element finally tied everything together and showed the true scale of Hveradalir.
While I don't have pieces from Hveradalir in my collection yet, you can explore the other Iceland adventures that made it into museum-quality prints in my Iceland collection, including that midnight Skógafoss shot I mentioned.
The mud presented real challenges, especially in areas without boardwalks. One particular section had steps cut directly into the mud on an incline that was nearly like glass. Getting to higher vantage points was legitimately difficult - so difficult that I ended up going back to my jeep and flying my drone to capture a proper overview shot.
The crowd levels made it easy to shoot without people - just a handful of people spread across a massive thermal field. I don't have any pieces from Hveradalir in my collection yet, but some will hopefully be coming soon.
How It Compares to Other Thermal Areas
Hveradalir is smaller than the more famous Landmannalaugar deeper in the highlands, but it's significantly easier to reach. For folks looking for something less crowded that doesn't require a crazy amount of effort to access, I highly recommend Hveradalir.
There are several thermal areas near the Ring Road and Golden Circle that are even easier to reach, but they don't have those impressive "rainbow mountain" vibes that make highland thermal areas special.
What makes Hveradalir worth the extra effort is the combination of dramatic thermal features, relatively easy access for a highland destination, and genuine solitude.
The Highland Experience
Here's what really got me about this detour - it wasn't just about Hveradalir itself. The journey through the highlands felt fundamentally different from the Ring Road experience.
No crowds. Just raw nature and dirt roads. Me and the landscape, with nothing between us.
The Ring Road, especially in the southeast, is incredibly crowded for good reason - it's absolutely beautiful. But the highlands are equally, if not more beautiful, without the people. It's just you and nature in its most untamed form.
This single day trip left me with a burning desire to return and focus an entire trip on the highlands. To seek out the harder-to-reach places in Iceland that require more effort but reward you with experiences you can't find anywhere else.
Practical Planning: Should You Go?
If you're planning an Iceland Ring Road trip and debating whether to add Hveradalir, here's my honest take:
Time commitment: About 7 hours total - roughly 2 hours driving each way from the Golden Circle, plus 3+ hours exploring.
When I went: Early on day two of my trip. I'd stayed in a small campground not far from the Golden Circle (more on that incredible cultural experience in an upcoming post), completed the Golden Circle in a whirlwind on day one, then struck off for Hveradalir early on day two.
It was a very long day. The highland detour definitely played a part in setting me behind schedule, which led to me rolling into Skógafoss at midnight - but that timing meant I captured Iceland's most famous waterfall completely empty of people, bathed in perfect blue hour light. That shot made it into my collection, and it only exists because I was "behind schedule." Sometimes being behind schedule creates magic.
If I did it again, I'd plan more time. Maybe even plan to stay overnight in the area - there's a basic campground with good wind protection just off the thermal area road.
What you need:
- 4WD vehicle (legally required for F-roads)
- Good hiking boots - that mud is seriously slippery
- Camera protection - bring something to wipe down your lens from sulfur and steam
- Drone (if you have one) - truly the best way to capture the scale
- Patience for that last 10km of narrow, washed-out road
Is it worth it if you only have 10 days? That depends on what you value. If you're racing to hit every famous Ring Road stop, maybe not. But if you want to experience what makes Iceland's highlands so special, absolutely yes.
The Verdict
Hveradalir ranks among my top Iceland experiences from the entire trip - not just for the thermal area itself, but for what it represented. A glimpse into a different Iceland. One where you can still find solitude and feel the raw power of nature without fighting crowds for space.
The journey through the highlands, past volcanoes and glaciers, along roads that required my full attention - that alone made the detour worthwhile.
I'm already planning a return trip focused entirely on the highlands. Landmannalaugar, Askja, Kerlingarfjöll, and yes, more time at Hveradalir. Places that require more effort to reach but reward that effort with experiences you can't find anywhere else.
Iceland's most famous spots are famous for good reason. But Iceland's hidden places? Those are the ones that stay with you.
Want to see where this highland adventure fit into my complete Iceland journey? Check out Part 1: My 10-Day Ring Road Adventure for the full story of rooftop tent camping, puffin hunting, and learning that 10 days is never enough.
Coming soon: The story of that small campground full of locals, a sunset conversation about climate change, and being awakened by an entire campground singing Icelandic songs under the midnight sun.
Exploring from Austin, one unexpected adventure at a time.
Have you been to Hveradalir or other highland thermal areas in Iceland? I'd love to hear about your experience in the comments below.